Familie Saahs Nikolaihof im Weingebirge Federspiel Gruner Veltliner, Wachau, Austria

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The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Im Weingebirge is another remarkably buoyant and poised Nikolaihof triumph. Lentil, rhubarb, lemon, white peach, plum distillate, and tobacco are among the elements that come wreathed in flowers and smoke, and underlain by savory, saline, scallop-like suggestions. That striking mineral melange, combined with sheer extract, give this wine a mysterious sense of sweetness, even though it is analytically as dry as it is delicate. If you think lightness isn't compatible with profundity of flavor, this -little- wine will set you straight! Nikolaus Saahs followed up his amazing 2006 collection with more than suitable successors (although the top Rieslings of 2007 - following usual Nikolaihof practice - will only be unveiled this year or next, and could not yet be reviewed). As is frequently the case at this passionately biodynamic address, the Saahs family is happy to point out that they finished harvesting fully ripe fruit - early October - before some area growers had probably even begun.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300