The 2005 Pinot Noir “Cumberland Reserve” is blended from nine vineyards with diverse terroirs. Medium ruby-colored, it has an expressive perfume of smoke, cassis, black cherry, and black raspberry. Medium-bodied, it offers a fleshy mid-palate, ripe fruit, and excellent balance. There is structure but it is well-concealed. The finish is long and pure. Give it 3-4 years to evolve and drink it through 2022. In a remarkably brief time (the first vintage was 1999), Bergstrom, under the leadership of winemaker Josh Bergstrom, has become one of the quality leaders of the Willamette Valley. All of the estate vineyards are biodynamically farmed and Demeter certified.Tel. (503) 554-0468; www.bergstromwines.com. Also tasted: 2005 Dr. Bergstrom Riesling (90), 2005 Pinot Noir “Bergstrom Vineyard – Whole Cluster Selection” (86?)