The bergamot and red fruit-scented 1997 Coteaux du Layon Cuvee le Paon exhibits a broad, sweet character filled with Cynar (an Italian artichoke liqueur), apricots, candied lemons, and tangy limes. It is beautifully rendered, lush, velvety, and flavorful. Drink it over the next 15 years. Importer: Ex Cellars, Solvang, CA; tel (805) 686-9153.