L'Oustal Blanc, Minervois, France

白舍酒莊桃紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：5819

The l’Oustal 2005 Minervois (whose labeling pre-dates use of the name “Giocoso” for this cuvee) had a hard act to follow in the amazing 2004, and due to extremely sluggish malo-lactic transformation, it was very slow to appear on the stage. But the wait was worth it. The savory, saline, roasted meat, and pan dripping side of this makes it as capital-“U” umami a wine as you can experience anywhere, and just transcribing this note has me salivating reflexively. Bitter-edged cassis and black raspberry with wafting, clinging thyme and rosemary further inform this wine of persistent brightness and invigoration. If you think you already know what Minervois is capable of and you don’t yet know this wine, think again! I expect, too, that it will prove well worth following for 4-6 years yet. Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Wood smoke and marjoram tweak the nose in the team’s 2005 Minervois La Liviniere blend (subsequently known as cuvee “Prima Donna”), which spreads a ripe, rich coating of black fruits across the palate, leaving behind just a trace of tannic grit and alcoholic heat. (While routinely weighing in at 15-16% alcohol, these wines seldom betray it.) As in the case of the 2004 vintage (reviewed in issue 173), it seems as though Team L’Oustal had at this point not yet mastered the potential of their best La Liviniere sites, because for all of its concentration, its sheer length, and fascinating suggestions of stony, chalky minerality, this does not reach the level of excitement – nor, I suspect, the aging potential – of their 2005 of simple Minervois appellation. Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The L’Oustal 2004 Minervois La Liviniere originates in over-100 year old Grenache vines, with just a bit of Carignan and Syrah. With a vividly mincemeat-like nose of candied citrus, prune, white raisin, and smoked meat, this mounts such a concentrated attack on the palate that while the taster is swept away by the sheer richness of its endless folds of super-ripe black fruit, a bit of warmth – along with meaty, chalky character – emerges as collateral damage in the finish. But surely it’s early days for this wine, even though I hesitate to speculate how long it might be best to hold it.Claude Fonquerle and his oenolgist Philippe Cambie earned their stripes in Chateauneuf du Pape, and in 2002 began to vinify in Minervois. The wines – like their labels – are flamboyant, almost over-the-top, and utterly striking.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler

Fonquerle and Cambie’s 2004 Minervois (70% Grenache plus Syrah and Carignan) is simply the richest, most imposing Minervois of my experience. Lavender, marjoram, black pepper and black cherry on the nose lead to a velvety, expansive palate full of pure, sweet, almost honeyed black cherry essence. Vanilla, clove, and lavender add complexity as this wine – for all of its sheer richness – maintains fluidity and hides its over-15% alcohol as it launches into a convincingly long finish. Claude Fonquerle and his oenolgist Philippe Cambie earned their stripes in Chateauneuf du Pape, and in 2002 began to vinify in Minervois. The wines – like their labels – are flamboyant, almost over-the-top, and utterly striking.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler