Molino's 2003 Barolo Gallinotto presents an atypically rich profile for a wine from La Morra. This richly-textured Barolo reveals an ample, generous personality loaded with dark cherries, spices, chocolate and sweet toasted oak. It should prove to be accessible fairly early. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015.
My impression is that Mauro Molino is an estate still in search of a well-defined, consistent house style. In recent years the wines have gained in richness and complexity. The oak that dominated the wines- balance in the past has been cut back. It is still too soon to know if these developments signify a long-term commitment to a higher level of quality, but for now Molino certainly seems to be moving in the right direction.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411