One of my favorite new wines from Tuscany, this 30-acre estate, owned by Vittorio Fiore and Adriana Assje, produces wines from a clone of Sangiovese called Lamole. The wine is aged in small 350 liter foudres for 18 months prior to bottling. Yields are extremely low, averaging approximately 1.2 tons of fruit per acre (about 20 hectoliters per hectare). Every vintage to date has been impressive. The 1996 Il Carboniaone is powerful, with textbook aromas of cedar, new saddle leather, and spice. Moreover, it boasts a spectacularly concentrated black cherry and berry fruit-dominated personality. The new oak is noticeable, but this is a wonderfully full-bodied, multilayered, exciting wine. The 1996 gives the impression of having lots of structure. Anticipated maturity: now-2012.
A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620