The 2011 Duas Quintas Reserva is revisited this issue for a checkup after several years. This is aging well—at least for the moment—but it was certainly a shock to the palate after tasting the livelier, fresher and fruitier 2017. Muscular and concentrated, and certainly from a warm vintage that produced very ripe fruit, sometimes to a fault, this shows darker fruits and baked strawberries. Yet, as it airs out, it's hard to resist its layered complexity, vibrant demeanor and impressive concentration. It is not the most typical Reserva, but it is an impressive one if you like this warmer style. If you say it's too jammy, I won't say you're wrong, but it has many other virtues. It has also developed some nuance as it ages.
A little restraint might have made this a superstar instead of merely a big star. At the moment, it is still very fine. After being decanted, though, it did make me wonder if it has the freshness to continue aging as well as I'd hoped. I'm going to roll that drinking window back a bit for the moment. We'll see where this goes in another few years.
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