Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Reserva, Douro, Portugal

威比特杜艾絲莊園珍藏紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：9917

The 2019 Duas Quintas Reserva is a 70/20 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, with Tinta da Barca for the rest, all aged for 18 months in 20% new French oak of various sizes. It comes in at a hefty 15.7% alcohol. A big Reserva, this has fine depth and concentration, big fruit flavors and pungent aromatics. There is a serious backbone too. It is, though, the highest I've seen in alcohol (although some might have more generic and less accurate label numbers rather than the actual analytical numbers I seek now). So far, this seems to handle its size and alcohol very well, even if it is a bit of an outlier (but not as much for the Reserva, as the regular in this report is for that lighter-styled brand). In fact, it seems rather delicious and still focused. It's tightly wound but not harsh. Right now, I have to lean up on this but not quite all the way. I'm sure some will find it sensational, but I would like to see some evidence it can hold its balance. The tannins are not hard, so you can try this now. It will still be better in a couple of years, if all goes well.

The 2018 Duas Quintas Reserva is a 68/18 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, with Tinta da Barca for the rest, all aged for 18 months in 30% new wood of various sizes, including large vats. As a result, it handles the wood beautifully and seems rather pure. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Beautifully structured and exquisitely balanced, this is a little understated—nothing hits you over the head—but it lingers on the finish and seems very refined. It shows off good mid-palate finesse. For this to prove its point, ultimately, it will need a few years in the cellar. It seems like the type of wine that will drink relatively well young—although it needs to become more expressive—but also age effortlessly, perhaps better than anticipated. It will be something that is perfect for the table.

The 2017 Duas Quintas Reserva is a 60/30 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, plus Tinta da Barca and Sous?o for the rest, aged for 18 months in a mixture of used barrels (90% French) and large vats. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. This is a lovely DQ Reserva, a good competitor to fine vintages like the 2016, 2015 and 2011 (which is revisited this issue, in fact). This feels fresher, fruitier and livelier than most. While it doesn't seem quite as dense or as muscular as the 2016 (and certainly not the 2011), it is arguably more expressive and shows more finesse. The balance is perfect. As it airs out, it shows the power that will allow this to age well, too, even if it is relatively accessible. This looks like the best since the 2011—and in a more elegant style that many will prefer.

The 2016 Duas Quintas Reserva is a 55/38 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, plus 7% Tinta da Barca, aged for 12 months in a mixture of new, second and third use oak (90% French). It comes in at 15% alcohol. This was only in bottle a couple of weeks when seen over the summer. It's now in the USA, so let's check in. It has come together much better. It's fleshed out a bit, as I'd hoped, seeming fuller bodied now. It still has fine mid-palate finesse. Its texture is sensual velvet. It does have a tannic kick—it's by no mean fully ready—but the tannins are relatively ripe. You can pop this if you must. Coming back in 2021 would be a much better idea. At that point, this will be more expressive and more harmonious. Graceful, sensual and impeccably well balanced, this looks like an enticing Duas Quintas that will age for another 15 years, at least. It still has some upside potential in the cellar.

The 2015 Duas Quintas Reserva has been seen before, but at a much earlier stage. It is mostly Touriga Nacional, with dollops of Touriga Franca (10%) and Tinta da Barca (5%), aged for 12 months in barriques of varying ages and nationalities. This is just gorgeous in its understated way, a classic of the vintage, something that exemplifies what nature gave in 2015. It has beautiful mid-palate finesse. It's not big, deep and rich, but it is fresh, vivid in flavor and impeccably balanced. The fruit is lifted and nicely defined. It feels like a barrel sample even today. I suspect this will age quite well. If it is on the lighter side in concentration, its freshness and balance will serve it well in the cellar. People often underestimate the aging ability of lighter-styled but very fresh wines. It's pretty delicious and approachable right now, but I suspect it will get even better with a little cellaring.