Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanee Grand Cru, France

里貝伯爵酒莊（羅曼尼特級(jí)園）紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：30019

Liger-Belair's monopole 2006 La Romanee is impressively redolent of game, wood smoke, strawberry- raspberry preserves, and exotic spices. This coats and clings to the palate with sappy and invigorating fruit, spice, and smoke, as well as with dense, fine-grained tannins. Penetrating in the finish and restlessly alternating between intensely gamey, high-toned fruit distillate, jam, and spice wavelengths. This needs several years of restful evolution but there is little question that some sort of impressive animal is going to emerge over the coming decade or more. Louis-Michel Liger-Belair reported higher potential alcohol levels this year than in 2005, but also maintains that the nature of the ambient yeasts in 2006 accounted for a thankfully inefficient conversion, so that finished alcohols were not noticeably higher. Triage in his cellars, he maintains, was and will in future vintages remain "two to three percent," thanks to restriction of yields and meticulous vine management. Liger-Belair remains a proponent of gentle extraction but high levels of new wood. What I misleadingly announced in issue 170 as "a new negociant side of the business" is in fact an arrangement whereby Liger-Belair himself farms around 15 acres that had previously been tended by a grower who once enjoyed a share-cropping arrangement with Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair (during the long period when their wines were pledged to Bouchard). Half of the acreage in question yields Bourgogne and is genuinely sold as a negociant project, but the rest will be treated to the domaine's vine-papering, biodynamic regimen, including the horse plowing of whose revival they were among the earliest and most conspicuous proponents. Liger-Belair reminds me, however, that it will take time for the effect of this attention to be felt. Beginning with this vintage also, all of the Liger-Belair monopole La Romanee and all of their Vosne Reignots are estate-bottled, none being sold any longer to Bouchard. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

While it starts austerely, this wine is obviously going to be a powerhouse of red plum and other ripe red fruits. The aromas are smoky, and this also shows in the palate as the wine fills with juicy richness, finishing with tight acidity. Give it 5–10 years.——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 94