Mauro Molino, from La Morra, has turned out an attractive, evolved, open-knit, medium-bodied 1995 Barolo Vigna Gancia with fine ripeness, and a spice box/cherry-dominated personality. Although not a blockbuster, it is elegant, soft, and ideal for drinking over the next 4-5 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411