The 2003 Barolo Vigneto Gancia is a big, full-bodied wine. Made in a sweet, generous style it offers dark cherries, plums and minerals on an ample, full-bodied frame. Stylistically, it is the fattest and most overtly fruit-driven of the estate’s Barolos. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015.
My impression is that Mauro Molino is an estate still in search of a well-defined, consistent house style. In recent years the wines have gained in richness and complexity. The oak that dominated the wines’ balance in the past has been cut back. It is still too soon to know if these developments signify a long-term commitment to a higher level of quality, but for now Molino certainly seems to be moving in the right direction.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411